Practical - Crimping, Backcombing and Rats

During this most recent practical hair styling session we learnt how to crimp hair with the crimping irons, how to backcomb hair and how to use rats to create volume in our designs. Just like every time we learn a new skill, we were working on our Mimi heads. We started by crimping Mimi's whole head of hair. This was quite easily executed, the success of the final outcome was dependent on the thickness of the sections crimped and the amount of time the crimpers were left on the hair.

The crimpers could be set to a very high heat of 230 degrees for thicker, stubborn hair, but on Mimi's thin and quite damaged hair I started by using the crimpers on 180 degrees. I sectioned the hair in two halves and worked from the underneath of the hair and up to the front of the head on either side. I found that I only had to hold the crimpers for 4 seconds for a prominent zigzag to form on each section. I quite liked the texture this created, however actually crimping Mimi's whole head was ridiculously boring itself, not to mention it smelt vile. This was a very handy skill to have gained though and I will likely be incorporating it into my designs.

We then brushed out the crimp using a paddle brush which created instant body, it made Mimi's hair seem a lot fuller than it actually was meaning I would be able to create more height with a smaller amount of hair. Then I created a section from the top of the head straight down to just behind the ear. Sectioning off from the bottom and working up, I back combed this small section. When backcombing, the hair needs to be held taught either upwards or outwards, pushing a small toothed comb from the middle of the section of hair towards the root. It helps to keep this pushing motion controlled as it allows the back comb to be brushed out with ease as you're not creating knots. You will know that you're creating backcomb when your comb stops being able to push as close to the root. I already knew how to create backcomb but I was open to some practice as I hadn't put it to use since my scene kid phase in 2009.

We then learnt how to create a bouffant with a rat. Rats are hair inserts made from tissue paper in tights or more expensive versions are usually made from foam in netting. The net allows the stylist to thread pins through it and into the models hair so that it is secured to the head.

We were shown two different ways to do this. The first one that I tried was using the section of hair that I had just backcombed again; from the middle part down to just behind the ear. Working from the back of the head I pulled the section backwards and I took the 'rat' and placed it underneath the very ends of the section of hair. I then rolled the rat under on itself, inwards towards the roots so that the hair was wrapped around the rat. I then secured the rat to the head using Kirby grips and worked the hair over it so this it wasn't visible thought the bouffant from any angle, moving sections and securing them further with hair pins.  

The second technique created the same look however we were able to make sure that the rat was held more securely on the head. This would be more appropriate when shooting a scene in a film as it will withstand more movement whereas the other technique would be fine for a photo shoot where less movement is involved. This technique involves creating a small French plait at the back of the section of hair you are trying to manipulate. I took the same section that I used for the other bouffant but on the other side of the head and weaved a small, tight French plait. I then folded this plait over alongside itself and pinned it securely to the head with Kirby grips. This was what I was going to pin my rat to in order to keep it stiff and stable underneath the hair. Instead of rolling the hair over the rat this time, I pinned the rat in place before trying to style the hair going over the top of it. I tucked the hair underneath the rat once it had been pinned to the plait and pinned it into place with hair pins and Kirby grips.

 
I was able to create both bouffants with little stress but personally I found that I created a cleaner style when using the second technique. I was able to hand the hair with more control when I wasn't trying to roll the rat in at the same time as keeping the hair tight around it, therefore if incorporate bouffants into my designs then I will be using the second technique. Overall I enjoyed the session and felt confident in my ability to perform all skills learnt when the two hours were up.